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In May 2004 the children were now finally
old enough (5 and 8), in order to make the first large bicycle route.
The most fun for us makes bicycling in the mountains. Since children
are not yet extremely loadable in this age, it was clear that it must
be a route, which runs with little upward gradient. It is ideal to
follow therefore the run of a river. After some research in the
Internet, we choosed a part of the Etsch Valley cycle track, from the
Reschen (Resia) pass downward to Merano, Bolzano, direction Trento.
This piece is
part of the antique Roman road via Claudia Augusta from the river Po to
the Danube.
Fantastic cycling through apple plantations
Hotel, guest house or…?
There are some books about this route, partially also with overnight
accommodation references. The largest disadvantage for us is however
that one should reserve the individual stages, there we (2 adults and 2
children) two double rooms would need. If the children's become tired,
or the weather turns over, you have to look how to reach the stage goal.
Completely spontaneously I considered myself, what would be if we take
a
Caravan!
No reservation, light luggage at the bicycle, flexibly, the children
have their own housing thereby, and we do not have to limit ourselves
with the luggage and toys. Disadvantage is natural that one must bring
the camper somehow in the evening to the camping site:
Not badly, the whole Etsch valley starting from Merano upward is served
with regular buses, which drive every 60-90 minutes. Downwards from
Merano there is a railway.
Stupidly only: It was April, and we wanted to drive in May, and had
still no camper. Owing to the Internet I found actually still a
caravan, which was to be still rented. It was not a beautiful one, but
stick beds for the children, and a changeable group of seats as parents
bed. For 2 weeks completely OK.
The 4 bicycles are
accommodated at the tail porter at the bus
Stage 1
The start is on the parking lot of the old customs
station at the Resia pass. Until here, there is also a bus line up from
Merano. We let the caravan stand here. The old customs station is not
however on the highest point, one must the first few minutes thus step
powerful.
When starting the weather was still completely well, hardly we however
the Resia see had reached, it starts to rain.
Old cycler experience: Always keep in motion, then one is faster out of
the rain….
Nothing it was: Just on a section lake shore of the cycle track, at
which there is no protection possibility, got us a cloud break. We had
rain clothes, however only “above around”. We have paused wet in a
tunnel, until it was over. The temperatures were however thereafter in
the cellar, and we still rather damp. No matter, further to the dam.
Behind it, the rain starts again, and we saved ourselves on the next
camping site “Thöni” directly underneath the dam.
Stage 2
The whole
night it was raining, but after the breakfast it was then drying.
First it always went along the lower lake,
over bridges and through the forest.
After the lower lake it goes fairly down, by beautiful old villages,
always along the Etsch.
During the morning it became brighter over us, around us one could
however see the rainstorms.
In Sluderno with its beautiful city wall we were simply too fast: We
had caught up the rain. A looong break, and a few ices later, we could
slowly cycle further. The daily objective was still undefined,
secretly I wanted however reach Lasa if possible, what would then
have been the half distance to Merano.
Occasionally it goes properly upward….
The
childrens motivation was increased in the immeasurable, when I
had told them of the adventure playground on the camping Lasa with
its swimming pool. Those did not want to stop any longer, 65 Km!
The
camping site was completely nicely, the swimming pool well, the
playground however a sad affair. Of because of adventures! The
adventure consisted of doing gymnastics on the rattly racks around!
Stage 3
On the next morning fantastic weather expected us. The sun burned so
strong, that we had breakfast in the camper, outside in the lee it was
simply too hot. The camper was parked before the camping site in the
proximity of the bus stop.
It goes downhill, and from
the rear blows a tidy wind, which makes the
temperature bearable. Some cycler decided for the opposite direction,
those do wrong to me: Uphill, and then still strong head
wind….
Occasionally there is also a shower
There are a lot of restaurants at the way, which adjusted themselves
to cycler and walkers. As soon as hunger bothers, one selects a nice
one.
Fantastic view to the mountains of Merano
In the afternoon we reached
comfortably Merano with its city camping
site. A beautiful stage, without traffic, only in Merano becomes the
traffic
with the children a little annoyingly. The camping site is simple, but
cleanly and
central. The swimming pool is not opened however
yet.
We paused here for one day, and walked on the Marlengo
Waal ,
At the Marlengo Waal near by Merano
this time however of Marlengo toward source, which proves as the more
spectacular piece. Partially the Waal in the tunnel disappears, and the
walking way is led around on bridges around the rock.
Left it goes far and steeply downhill
Stage 4
The children were waked by
the sun, and we by the children, who wanted to drive absolutely
further. Nothing it was with sleeping long.
Since the place was not fully occupied, I was allowed to let the camper
stand here to the afternoon on the area of the campground. Very
friendly!
The cycle track runs by directly the
camping site, and we drove without much traffic outside from Merano.
Unfortunately the sign-posting lost itself in the following, and our
cycling book could not help us also. We changed several times the
valley side on the search for a way without much traffic. At last
we drove through the apple plantations, whereby that is actually not
permitted,
it is cooperative country.
The way led
across many kilometers also successfully into the correct direction,
stopped then however. The smallest gear inside, and by the grass
under the trees through, until we found a way again. Fortunately there
were no fences or ditches between the plantations!
Apple plantations between Merano and Bolzano
The wages of our trouble
were then completely surprisingly in the
middle in the apple groves a beautiful restaurant, in which we took on
a wine terrace a lunch.
Near Bolzano over the Etsch
We terminated the stage in Laives, on the camping “Steiner”. Madly,
also free and indoor swimming pool!
I had now for the first time to go back by train. I had meant that
this should be faster than the bus. As if! From Laives to the station
there it was 5Km. I drove those then directly with the bicycle. In
Bolzano I
had to transfer, the connecting train drove me away straight
before the nose. 1 hour of waiting period. On the way
after Merano the track leads along the Etsch, which my tired eyes see:
The cycle track
leads directly left-sided along the river. Brand new with new asphalt.
So new that for the sign-posting still no time remained!
We had it only completely scarcely missed…
Stage 5
Starting from Bolzano navigation becomes completely simple: Right or
left-sided the Etsch always along the flood dam.
On the right and on the left
the mountains, apple plantations
(what else?), and no traffic. The camper remained
for the last stage on the camping site, we wanted to come back from
Trento with the
train.
The plan was good, however wind arose against noon with the
thermionics, which had pushed us so beautifully the last days always.
This time however from the front!
In addition
the swimming pool on the camping site for the children was a large
incentive. With every pedal step they removed their self further and
further. It came
like it had to come: To the strike of the children!
Very bad we could not be, the trip was much better than
we ever thought. The whole family had so much fun,
that for 2005, 2006, 2007,…. the next bicycle routes are planned. To be
flexible in doing that, we bought a own camper….
Character
of the tour to Trento: Very beautiful landscape and little
traffic. In between there are some acclivities, but not too many.
Sign
Posting: The cycle track is usually well out-described.
Sometimes however only
the feeling continues to help…. One drives one to 90% on asphalt,
the
nature roads are very good to drive on however. Starting from Merano
there is practically only bitumen.
Traffic facility in the Etsch Valley:
Between Resia pass and Merano there are a buses, starting from Merano
there is the railway. With both it is allowed to take the bicycle into.
Overnight
accommodation:
We used the bicycles to drive from camping site to camping site. In the
evening I went back with the bus/railway to retrieve the camper. An
overnight accommodation in guest houses probably no problem. See the
Bikeline books.
Travel time:
We were in May/June on the way. That was naturally still quite cool at
the Resia pass, but below Merano it was perfect.
Map of the
route
How continued?
To relax and "regenerate" we drove to Europe's best campsite, Caravanpark
Sexten.
We already had read much about it, and the distance were only
about 100 Km.
You open the door
in the morning and then....
The place and the situation: A dream!
However it was only May, and the place is on over 1000 meters height.
It was fresh, and the children built the last snow man from the snow
remainders.
One knows this
kitsch photos only from cheap calendar photos, in the neighboring
Fischlein valley
one can shoot it however personal.
On the way back over the Brennero we wanted to strike the Pentecost -
homebound wave of traffic, and an intermediate overnight accommodation
before the Brennero pass, in order to be able to drive on the next
morning very early.
The Gilfenklamm
lies near Sterzing in South Tyrol, briefly before the Brennero pass and
is an intermediate stop always worth.
Thus one looks, if one sucks colored lollies: -)
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